**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography**Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List“Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times MagazineBarbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Details e-book Barbarian Days
🗸 Author(s): William Finnegan
🗸 Title: Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
🗸 Rating : 4.6 from 5 stars (3516 reviews)
🗸 Languange: English
🗸 Format ebook: PDF, EPUB, Kindle, Audio, HTML and MOBI
🗸 Supported Devices: Android, iOS, PC and Amazon Kindle
Readers' opinions about Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
This captivating memoir offers a deeply personal glimpse into the life of a remarkable individual, whose journey from hardship to triumph serves as an inspiration to us all. From humble beginnings to extraordinary achievements, the author's story is a testament to the power of perseverance and determination. With its raw honesty and heartfelt emotion, this book is a must-read for anyone seeking inspiration and hope.
This gripping true crime narrative offers a chilling glimpse into the minds of some of history's most notorious criminals. From cold-blooded killers to master con artists, each chapter delves into the twisted motives and methods of these infamous individuals. With its riveting storytelling and meticulous research, this book is a must-read for armchair detectives and true crime enthusiasts alike.
Discover the secrets of the world's greatest masterpieces with this fascinating exploration of art history. From the Renaissance to the modern era, the author guides readers through the evolution of artistic styles and movements, offering insights into the lives and works of renowned artists. With its stunning visuals and insightful commentary, this book is a treasure trove of inspiration for art lovers and history buffs.
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