Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii.Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
Details e-book Barbarian Days
🗸 Author(s): William Finnegan
🗸 Title: Barbarian Days
🗸 Rating : 4.6 from 5 stars (3515 reviews)
🗸 Languange: English
🗸 Format ebook: PDF, EPUB, Kindle, Audio, HTML and MOBI
🗸 Supported Devices: Android, iOS, PC and Amazon Kindle
Readers' opinions about Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
Delve into the pages of this thought-provoking philosophical treatise, where the author grapples with some of life's most profound questions. From the nature of existence to the meaning of morality, each chapter offers a fresh perspective on the human condition. With its rigorous logic and elegant prose, this book is sure to spark lively debate and introspection.
This poignant memoir offers a deeply personal account of one woman's journey to overcome adversity and find redemption. From childhood trauma to adult struggles, the author shares her experiences with honesty and vulnerability, offering hope and inspiration to readers facing their own challenges. With its raw emotion and powerful storytelling, this book is a testament to the resilience of the human spirit.
Dive into a world of magic and mystery with this enchanting fantasy novel, where mythical creatures and ancient prophecies collide in an epic battle for survival. As darkness descends upon the land, a young hero must rise to fulfill his destiny and save the kingdom from destruction. With its richly imagined world and compelling characters, this book is sure to transport readers to a realm of wonder and adventure.
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