Barbarian Days

Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii.Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

Details e-book Barbarian Days

🗸 Author(s): William Finnegan
🗸 Title: Barbarian Days
🗸 Rating : 4.6 from 5 stars (3515 reviews)
🗸 Languange: English
🗸 Format ebook: PDF, EPUB, Kindle, Audio, HTML and MOBI
🗸 Supported Devices: Android, iOS, PC and Amazon Kindle

Readers' opinions about Barbarian Days by William Finnegan

Edmonde Palmer
Immerse yourself in the magical world of fairy tales with this enchanting collection of stories from around the world. From classic folklore to lesser-known myths, each tale is a timeless reminder of the power of storytelling. With its beautiful illustrations and captivating narratives, this book is sure to delight readers of all ages.

Sherle Mitchell
Delve into the pages of this captivating novel, where the lines between reality and fantasy blur in a mesmerizing tale of magic and adventure. Set in a world where anything is possible, the story follows a group of unlikely heroes as they embark on a quest to save their kingdom from darkness. With its richly imagined world and engaging characters, this book is sure to enchant readers of all ages.

Angeline Waters
This captivating science fiction novel transports readers to a distant future where humanity has colonized the stars and forged new alliances among the cosmos. Against the backdrop of interstellar conflict, the story follows a group of intrepid explorers as they journey to the far reaches of space in search of a lost civilization. With its gripping plot twists and richly imagined world-building, this book is a thrilling adventure that will leave readers eagerly anticipating the next installment.

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